$99.00$ to go, new machine

I have gotten very close to freeing my new machine from the hidden depths of layaway. I have been waiting to use it maybe on the LW dress I am working on. I hope to get some pictures of more in progress of where I am at with it all. I am sad about not being able to cartridge pleat as planned, had to quick guage. Grrr. Don'tike this getting old stuff.

Little Women and Surving Sewing of

Okay, so the Little Women Picnic will be very silly. I have started the costume out of a tiny spring green check. It is sickeningly sweet, and sometimes the checks just want to make me puke. But I do not make these things for myself, I make them for Sally to use in her many dangerous expositions and fashion shows.

So, I hope to have the skirt panels cut out and work on them this weekend, need to take some time to let the stress out.

It Seams a Mountain...Small Spaces Big Style

I have been recovering from selling at Costume Academy in Berkeley this past weekend and feel the need to be creative for me. How do I get this going?

Well, I have started spring cleaning early. After handling all my supplies this last week, I realised I had soooo much wasted space. I have room I have never had before to be creative, yet I find I work all over the place in that room. Sometimes it's a great creative feeling, but others I feel that I am blocked by not really having the flow through I would like to have. So this last trip, we got some things I hope to use for organizing and as they say on all the clean it up , neat nick cable shows, release myself from fabric prison!

I have to share with you some of my viewing pleasures in this area. I have watched some shows in the past, like Clean Sweep, and it is encouraging to see that there are other people more cluttered than I am get better with organizing. Of course, I don't have a behind the scenes crew to help...you know those minions of cleanliness. And the show Neat has inspired me a few times, but still seems unrealistic.

So the one show I found that has really got me to think creatively about organizing, is Small Spaces, Big Style. Seeing what people can do with a house that is half our size, or even a dorm room makes me think, I have so much more space than that, I have no excuses.

So my spring cleaning has begun, and rearranging my sewing and stock space is the priority this week. I have to have the space to create!

So, PHASE I
Create better storage for back stock of patterns
I have got another double filing cabinet and I will be setting the two up as a desk/shipping area.
Create better sewing area.

I have begun both of these and it is really a matter of getting some things better utilized. By swapping out the current space I use for shipping, a closet, I can store so many things in there and not have outside clutter. This frees up some movement room in the space.

Business Expansions, New Camera

I have been slowly getting the business side of things in order, and have decided to expand patterns to wearable art and Asian influences. I have been searching for a way to incorporate the art side of things for customers. I know myself to feel inclined to wearing things that remind me of retro influence, and also I have many people contacting me about Sci Fi/fantasy costuming. I think the many new independent pattern companies have some great lines in the patterns that could be great garb for an alien.

Okay, we took the plunge into one of the newer digital cameras. I know, I need to get more pictures up on this blog and in my online store. The camera I have had is so terrible that no amount of editing with Photo shop will fix them. I hope to chronicle my costuming and get more things up that are way easier to see, not so muddy. I am still intimidated by the the actual setting up of shots, learning about how not to use the memory stick up with one shot...

I Must Have New Computer Sewing Machine

After months of allowing myself to think of a new machine(of course many of the hindrances of $ aside) I have put down a deposit on a Husky Star. I realized that it was time, I will not completely desert my Phaff faithful, it still does many layers of fabric at once. But it is time.

I think that my first project after testing out the bells and whistles, will be the lovely green Victorian I have been dreaming about. I have many yards of taffeta with embroidered bits all over that I have been afraid of trying for two years now. It must come out of the bin of storage and finally get made!! Now to decide which patterns to use for this wonderful project.

Practice....
I am thinking I may make another Polonaise but pick some fabric that is not so spendy and start with that, get used to the pattern I choose. I do like to test run and heh, if it's wearable, take it for a spin.

Do I need a new Camera?

Yea, I do. I hope that this month we can finally order one, I really need to get some work in progress picts up on here. I spent yesterday re-cooping from the evil teeth monster and did get some bodice cutting out and done with. I have a paisley to start that is brown and green...yuck, what a combo, but great paisleys on it.

I have been watching the latest Jane Eyre on MPT. Great dresses, men's coats. It is one of my favorite periods, and the main dress she wears is very like the blue one I had some years back. I guess I will just have to remake one.

I started up on some bodice pieces and I need to get the over-lock oiled and re-threaded. I am having a hell of it with the blades I think getting dull ish. I hat the prospect of re-threading all the threads.

New Color, New Year

This year I will continue with green themes in the costumes. I did get a bit burnt on the black silk I used for some Widows Weeds. Hopefully Sally will have those pictures soon.

I am just so sick of black at this point.....
What, Janet sick of black? Well, I think I need a break from it. The color that I want to work with again this spring is green. Yea, how original is that? I have plans for some embroidered taffeta I got for holidays last year. I have some ideas about doing a new Victorian of the bustle era. I finished the mourning dress using the LM patterns for skirt and bodice. Drove myself insane trying to sew at every possible momment with the daylight to finish the main body of this costume. I realised I had to get it done, no trim or fancy things, just done. I was blocking on finding trim locally, and did not find any on my last trip. So, hopefully with the next Mourning Event being in October, I will have time to buy trim in the off season.

But Why Green?
It's alive? Well, kinda. The main reason being that greens are what I am finding locally in suitable weights to sew.I have re-watched some dramas like Deronda and The Way We Live Now and would like to try something from this era, however, I don't want to have to make the monster bustle so I am weighing me choices. Make a smaller bustle, lobster tail, or buy one. I can't really afford that so I may attempt one of the smaller ones.

Another Green Project
So, a Little Women event is planned for spring. I have the perfect little spring green check I found locally. It is supper soft and I am sure that the only thing to keep me from falling asleep in it is the corset! Hmmm...

Finally, The Uniquely You is Unique

After months of waiting and refitting and reworking, V carved the Uniquely You form with me on the weekend. However, I noticed that things had gotten a bit tight on the cover...hmmm, that holiday bulge. I have begun and increased excercise program and eating more veggies.

I was able to get the short corset and chemise on it and try to get the silk Regency ball gown solidly on it. After months of trying to get this one thing done, it is just amazing how much more possitive I can think about creating now. It's like having a blank canvas almost.

I hope to get our new Digital Camera after V calms down about his new iPod. Then I can get these projects done. I have to make something for the events coming up and I do hope to go to the Cyprian's this year, to make up for missing it two years back. Hope to get some pictures up with the old camera this weekend.

Uniquely You...the challenge

After much waiting, I finally got the Uniquely You dress form this fall and I am well, with trepid anticipation, getting ready to carve. Yes, with electric knife.

Prep
I have spent several weeks grinding my teeth over the fitting the cover to my body. I had to first stablize the rather flimsy fabric with cotton duck and literally pull it all apart. To save on trying to sew the massive back zipper, I sewed over the existing piece with the stronger fabric. I could not think of any other way to retain the massive zipper and not kill my machine. When I did that, I decided to slowly take apart the whole cover, re size it to me, adjust each piece, use that as a lining piece, and remake the whole thing. Heck, why waste the flimsy fabric, turn it into lining. The project took about three weeks, doing one panel at a time. It would not take this long had I not been grinding my teeth the whole time. I would run out of patience after each piece and have to go back to it after working on something else for a bit.

So, now after many fittings, I have the cover fitted to me. Now, I have to be brave and actually carve out the dress form. I have taken all the measurements and will try to find some cheaper foam in town and practice with the knife. I see this dragging out a bit, but I must show my patience.

Woo, New Year and New Messes

Wow, has it been that many months? Really? Okay, well it's that time of year for making promises and trying to keep them and I think I have done pretty well with the costuming ones.

I made it to Dickens and spent what little time we had there talking with friends and bonnet bumping galore. Trystan had a very nice picture of us and I will be uploading this later.

Wow, I have been working on my pledge of last year to use up some fabric I already have. This spurred the, I must clean my costuming closet mess...some of it, this year. So I have actually bought boxes for organizing hats and I am taking inventory of business items for sale and hope to utilize my space better. I realized by using some rather helpful items from Ikea that were meant for the kitchen, I can now organize my actual sewing supplies better. By doing this, I have more room in the cabinet!

Amazing, all this room you never knew you had because things weren't organized. So, all those HGTV and DIY shows finally inspired me. My goal is to create more room for saleable stuff in my business to somehow get to where I can make money. So, I am organizing away.

Of course, organizing while I am in the middle of making a spooky mourning outfit(black thread everywhere) and a regency Ball Gown...it's silk, eek! Actually, both have ravel potential and much pre-sewing and finishing must occur to have some actual fabric left to sew with for the costume. So, planning away for my two first projects of the year.

Georgian Costume, under skirt

I have been working for weeks on this costume using the Figleaf Pattern 101 that I sell on my website. I have been trying to make at least one pattern of each line to better understand the pattern line and how they work.
I have finally got to a point where I can sit back and think about this costume. The underskirt was a challenge in that I realized after years of doing costumes, that I needed to not have huge amounts of bulk under the over dress. I wanted the lines to be smooth. So I decided to try the side opening version of the underskirt and used pleating on the from and back tie tapes.

Attaching the skirt to the tapes, I did a temporary measure of zig-zag stitches to hold the pleats flat, and make it easier to do fittings that just pins. With the amount of fabric and weight, I did not trust the hand basting to work. I find that the zig zag has helped in many skirts to flatten and keep in control the waistline while covering the stiches and then sewing with a short length stich on the machine. I also think this is a great way to seam rip if I need to re-adjust the pleating.

Actually Making it to a Guild Event...

Oh my, I actually made it to this summer Romantic Poetry outing. I am waiting for some pictures of me in a boat. Of course, I dropped my camera in the leaky boat...Hope I can rescue the pictures.

What did I wear!
Only the green paisley I had been slaving over off and on for months. The sad story of the ruined first attempt at the bodice part, then luckily finding another yard or two left on the bolt at the local fabric place. It is just such a wonderful paisley. I will have to get some better close ups of it and the pelisse.

Pelisse
I finally got to wear this project that started two years ago! I loved this print from the moment it and decided to do a very late Regency coat with it. It was more of a Jacobean print maybe that may have been popular, but I liked the floral patterns so much. It had a bit more orange in the print than I would have liked.

Bonnet
I finally made up that silly little bonnet I had bought like 10 years ago , it seems. I put some plum feathers and purple ribbon on it, more of what you would call a autumn color scheme, but back in the Regency, they did wear some very odd colors together as it was fashionable to them.

What next, a 18th Century Robe .....

BayCon

Well, it was great that I kept up with my costume and worked on it weekly until the Con, but it's still was last minute sewing Friday while working my table. Then there was the trying to get to the Masqarade. Wouldn't you know it, when I have finally got my hair up where I wanted it to be and was fluffing the sleeves puffs, the fire alarm went off and we were asked to go down the stairs and not use the elevators. This was a headache. I was not going to do it, I had a train on my costume and didn't want to pick the hembroidery on the stairs.

Suffice it to say, everything was resolved and the Masque went on. I will have to pull out my costume and do some fixing and fluffing to get a picture of it. I finally finished my first fantasy piece in ten years. I will have to create another one for next year! I hope to have something done for SiliCon, thinking if I can get done during the Summer months. I think the theme for costumes is going to be green this summer. Good time for it. Easy when threading the machine too.

Well, I finally feel like I got somewhere

Well, after braving torrential rains and snow, I made it down to CA this last weekend. The place was cold and well, of course I came back with a sinus infection and ear infection. So, after getting put on evil meds for that, I am plotting spending the day in front of the fire sewing and finishing up the fantasy piece I have got as far as the skirt to. The gathered 1856 dress is nearly finished, I just have to figure out what about trim and such. Yes, Sally, I will send the review when my head stops pounding.

I may actually meet my goal of getting this costume done by BayCon.
No, I will not be going to CC again, hopefully when they have it here I will. Just don't have that kinda doe.

Fantasy Renaissance Costume Takes Shape

Yes, it's an amazing thing. I actually am getting this costume done. I have been using the Simplicity Ren Fantasy collection pattern 9929. I say fantasy, because the pieces may look Renni, but they are not really. Still, if you are doing a fantasy, this costume could get knocked together in two days easy. Of course, I had to add onto the costume because, well, I had to make it a little be less flimsy.

So, my thoughts so far. The Bodice has gone together very easy. I chose View B as it could be adjusted up or down is size with a few darts or what not if needed(hint, if you plan fantasy costumes like this, you won't do huge weight fluctuations because you planned ahead)

The shoulder rolls cam out looking like our Banana Slugs do in the yard, but they are purple in this costume. The fabric is a shot taffeta with weird orange purple hue and leaf scroll all over. I have decided to ad a skirt to the bodice, make it look a little bit more real Ren. Of course, the padded rolls were about as fun as banana slugs to sew with, but I endeavored to finish them.

Notes: If you use a lightweight taffeta or other fabric for rolls. Don't over stuff them. It will try to stay straight while you fight to get your arm through it.
Also, the under chemise(which is actually the whole dress, but I had to ad more layers) runs a bit large, and I found that the bodice ran a bit small, so, don't go by your standard measurements. Make the chemise first then take measurements for the bodice over it.

Okay, now, the other purple item
The Truly Victorian 1856 Gathered Front Bodice Dress
Boy, have I gotten sucked in by the new Bleak House Series. I like the costumes very much and have been drooling over the fan fronts and wishing my mid-section was back at 25". I am working very hard on the situps and weight machines and if I get it at least to 29" I will be happy! So, since I have been drooling, I decided to use this fabric of really scary paisleys in purple. I have been fussing over this one, but all in all, it is very straight forward. But, yet again, I needed to remember that the skirts are at a height for 5'5" in height, and I needed to remember to add onto the fabric amount. So, buy two yards more than you think you will need.

Wet Weather and Fantasy Costumes

So, the long and miserable days of winter are still happening, despite the strange early spring we are having. Daffadils in January? yes in my yard they are. But hey, we had a bearded iris come up at xmas.


So, after my tragic leaving of really awful teaching program I now have some of my creativity coming back at me, with me, and around me. I have actually begun a fantasy costume! It's been a while, and I must confess I have been drooling over bodices in Bleak House(PBS). But, since I had fabric from a gift certificate last year that was drooling over taffeta with embroidery, I am working on one of the Ren patterns from Making History, McCalls I think. Anyway, it's a pure fantasy piece with gold trim. You know, trim is amazing at deptracting from body flaws if done correctly.

I am actually very happy about sewing with this pattern so far. I have a cotton poly blend with gold print chemise and I have the loverly purple orange shot taffeta. I may have enough left over for a Victorian bustle, hmmm.

Hope to have some pictures soon.

Details of the Tails at Peacock Event

1870's Underskirt
I made this pattern up originaly to go to the Japonesque event and ended up with a very easy to put together costume, but still it took a lot of time. Of course, I learned the hard way to really measure the lengths of hems because it seems every pattern for skirts with Truly V is made for someone 5'6" height max. Once I determined thatI had to make a false nem, which is period to make a street hem and such anyway. It is very important to find out any period correct excuse that you can when correcting boo boos.

I found this a very simple throw together skirt. It does span a number of years and works well with 1870's Bustle or even a later one. I have used it with a Polonaise and th French Vest Bodice and I think that as long as the upper bustle is period correct for whatever time, it doesn't matter.
Pros: Not hard to work with the pattern pieces and there is a generous waist band.
Cons: The placket side closures is a bit tricky, but if you have been sewing and making plaquets, this technique is usefull to try on other projects. The side closure makes it hard to umm, expand if there is any weight gain. But, anything can be adapted.

Bustled Apron Overskirt
Curtains away! This pattern is one of the easier bustles I have done, I had to think Roman shades a bit with it. The directions are typical of TV, some diagrams and lots of written steps. But really, these basic bustles are very easy to throw together.
Pros: The tie system she uses is very good for results, however I think I would have to ad that using either smalls d rings or the roman shade rings on strategic places on the skirt near bustle top, may help in keeping the shifting from happening when using slipery fabrics..or any for that matter. Some people swear by huge pop snaps. The waistband is generouse again and I would secure the apron to the skirt waistband using snaps or hooks.
Cons: slipage of snotty slick fabric. Attaching d rings to the skirt will help the slippage of the skirts. Well, as much as can be expected. Also, the netting wasn't feasable at the time for me, but you may want to try it if your fabric is not picable.

1884 French Vest Bodice
Okay, this was very well fitted but I did have some issues, some of which being my silly "not paying attention" issues, or working black fabric late in the day. I started this vest pattern when it came out and intended to make it to the Peacock Event. I had to not work on it for about 3 months and picked it up again in the spring. The TV sizing system was great for when I first started but, well, there was expansion. These things do happen. So, the details:

I made this up and as I said, the expansion happened later. I decided with the vest part to be in this really cool, but easily fraying oriental faux silk stuff, I would wait until I had really gotten most of the bodice done before cutting it. Good thing I did as I rechecked the fit and went, hmmm, next size up in the front bit.This got me when I forgot to size up in the collar as well to make it fit and rubber chickened myself over the head. So, I did size up and adjust and was able to get to a wearable point with it, but then had two problems:
Cons:
1. when sizing for the bodice, I had made measurements over skirt and petticoats and such for the hip measurements, but I did not allow adequate for the front hip area. So, really check this. I know, I had been working on all items at once and trying to get things fitted in the right order, but blew it still.

2. the front closure. I have been working a lot with hook and eye tape because well, I just can't do the fine details anymore. So I had a poofing problem happen because the brocade was very thick and well, wanted to poof when closed. So I had to do a second set of hooks...well, so much for making it easier on myself with the hook and eye tape. If you have a better machine than mine, you can do the button holes as suggested, but it would be hard in the fabric I chose.

okay, I mixed eras, bad me!!! Well, it survived the day.

By the way, these ladies made me sick with those frills and such attention to details...I am quite green with envy on these ladies and their fine trims...off to pout now.

New Insanity, Bodices Galore

Or, how to start several projects at once and when you get stuck, work on the other. I have been working on 2 1830's dresses, one using the Sense and Sensibility Romantic gown with a early 1800's retro print, and a re make of the original gown I first made, many years ago, well my first attempt outside Renaissance costumes anyway, the 1830's High Waisted Full Gown by Past Patterns. I made it in another bargin bin fabric of a butterscotch background with little buds all over. So, I will probably reference them as 1830's Butterscotch and 1830's Beige.

So, I have also gotten some pictures of different stages of the costumes and also have two Regency Projects to finish up...and yes, I do have the Ren costume mostly done. I may actually get it out and about this Fall.

About the Only Good Thing in losing summer employement

....is that you can finish all those projects youve put off for months. I mean, I should be used to it by now with the school district. Being told that a job is there and well, something goes Kablam. So, I am looking at my pelise and being pleased about it. Th fabric is scrummy and maybe with this time that I suddenly have off, I can get some actual pictures up!

You are all shocked I am sure.

So, off to do battle with the evil lung disease I will now call the plague...otherwise known as the doctor's haven't a clue. I will dive into some fabric boxes this week and see about those costume projects that have been locked away.

New Costume Ideas for 2005

Ah, What to Create For 2005?

Spencers and Pelise, Gowns
For one, I am going to try to get my Pelise done, it's cut out. The student teaching has just sucked out all of my creative time. I would like to get this item done so if I have any life left in me after BayCon, I can go to the Regency Picnic and relax. I see myself falling asleep under a tree or something. I would like to get my Pelise in Paisley done, but may not be able to in time. If I get the top portion done, I could wear it as a Spencer, then attach the bottom later. Then there is the silly hat! I have a bib gown that needs some completion, so I hope to wear that.

Finish that Ren Faire Costume, right?
I hope to touch this a few times this summer and get it at least wearable. I am sure the first time I get it mobile, I will regret mistakes. I hope that by working part time in the summer I can finally get it done. It is a plush green and has some great trim going on. But I fear that my storage was not the greatest of things and need to get it out and aired.

Mourning in Victorian, and Dickens
Ooh, and let's not forget the two dresses I would like to get done, one very silly frilly one, or well, just the basics done first and then make it nice with trim later. I also hope to make a mourning dress out of my super WallMart Fabric, you know, the spooky stuff I found for like $3.00 a yard;-)

Next Installment: Ears at Last