1870's Underskirt
I made this pattern up originaly to go to the Japonesque event and ended up with a very easy to put together costume, but still it took a lot of time. Of course, I learned the hard way to really measure the lengths of hems because it seems every pattern for skirts with Truly V is made for someone 5'6" height max. Once I determined thatI had to make a false nem, which is period to make a street hem and such anyway. It is very important to find out any period correct excuse that you can when correcting boo boos.
I found this a very simple throw together skirt. It does span a number of years and works well with 1870's Bustle or even a later one. I have used it with a Polonaise and th French Vest Bodice and I think that as long as the upper bustle is period correct for whatever time, it doesn't matter.
Pros: Not hard to work with the pattern pieces and there is a generous waist band.
Cons: The placket side closures is a bit tricky, but if you have been sewing and making plaquets, this technique is usefull to try on other projects. The side closure makes it hard to umm, expand if there is any weight gain. But, anything can be adapted.
Bustled Apron Overskirt
Curtains away! This pattern is one of the easier bustles I have done, I had to think Roman shades a bit with it. The directions are typical of TV, some diagrams and lots of written steps. But really, these basic bustles are very easy to throw together.
Pros: The tie system she uses is very good for results, however I think I would have to ad that using either smalls d rings or the roman shade rings on strategic places on the skirt near bustle top, may help in keeping the shifting from happening when using slipery fabrics..or any for that matter. Some people swear by huge pop snaps. The waistband is generouse again and I would secure the apron to the skirt waistband using snaps or hooks.
Cons: slipage of snotty slick fabric. Attaching d rings to the skirt will help the slippage of the skirts. Well, as much as can be expected. Also, the netting wasn't feasable at the time for me, but you may want to try it if your fabric is not picable.
1884 French Vest Bodice
Okay, this was very well fitted but I did have some issues, some of which being my silly "not paying attention" issues, or working black fabric late in the day. I started this vest pattern when it came out and intended to make it to the Peacock Event. I had to not work on it for about 3 months and picked it up again in the spring. The TV sizing system was great for when I first started but, well, there was expansion. These things do happen. So, the details:
I made this up and as I said, the expansion happened later. I decided with the vest part to be in this really cool, but easily fraying oriental faux silk stuff, I would wait until I had really gotten most of the bodice done before cutting it. Good thing I did as I rechecked the fit and went, hmmm, next size up in the front bit.This got me when I forgot to size up in the collar as well to make it fit and rubber chickened myself over the head. So, I did size up and adjust and was able to get to a wearable point with it, but then had two problems:
Cons:
1. when sizing for the bodice, I had made measurements over skirt and petticoats and such for the hip measurements, but I did not allow adequate for the front hip area. So, really check this. I know, I had been working on all items at once and trying to get things fitted in the right order, but blew it still.
2. the front closure. I have been working a lot with hook and eye tape because well, I just can't do the fine details anymore. So I had a poofing problem happen because the brocade was very thick and well, wanted to poof when closed. So I had to do a second set of hooks...well, so much for making it easier on myself with the hook and eye tape. If you have a better machine than mine, you can do the button holes as suggested, but it would be hard in the fabric I chose.
okay, I mixed eras, bad me!!! Well, it survived the day.
By the way, these ladies made me sick with those frills and such attention to details...I am quite green with envy on these ladies and their fine trims...off to pout now.
